Hi Knitters!
My post today comes in two formats.
Post #1 is my long blogger's version on the following topic:
Fabric Organizer for Knitting Needles.
Post #2 is the short "cut-to-the-chase" version (It appears below) Take your pick:
POST #1:
I had dreamt for years of having all my knitting needles neatly organized in one place. I don’t care to admit how many times I have bought needles for a new project and found out later I already had the needles I needed at home. This has it's advantages in having several needles in the same size meaning I can leave UFOs on the needles indefintely, however......
My motley collection accumulated over the years and was stored primarily in old coffee mugs or SlimFast canisters -- serviceable but not exactly inspired. My circulars were usually in a tangled mess on a closet hook. The fabric organizers I have seen are usally too small and too flimsy. But the desire to make a special gift for a knitting friend who has gone the extra mile for me over the course of our friendship got me into my favorite local fabric store. When I discovered that they were having an amazing sale I knew the time had come to jump in. I was going to design the best-ever heavy duty fabric organizer -- one to hold both of our entire needle collection.
When I actually laid out all the needles and began taking measurements, I realized that two organizers were necessary—a large one for straights and circulars and a smaller size for double-points and crochet hooks. The following instructions include directions for both sizes.
I have been using both organizers for almost a year now. They have been opened hundreds of times and have held together well. I now have one go-to space in my knitting cabinet and I know it has saved me both time and money.
Now if only I could figure out a way to keep my projects and yarn stash as orderly!
Anyway in case any of you out there have been looking for a substantial fabric organizer here are the instructions for the one I made:
NOTE:
It took me the better part of two/three days to make both – two large and two small organizers -- from start to finish. It takes some patience and care to keep the layers and seams nice and flat and lined up precisely. Be sure that when you sew the binding around the edges that the fabric is well inside the binding to prevent the fabric from fraying down the line. I ironed often and used lots of pins to keep everything flat and even. The results are really worth the time spent.
Afternote to POST #1:
My husband has been watching a ball game in the room with me as I type this post. He was curious why I was typing like I had an overdue term paper. When I told him what I was writing about he said: “Why can't you just say 'I made some knitting needle thingies for me and my friend. In case you want to make one too, here are the instructions.'” That made me laugh.
For some people it is all about the destination. For others, it’s about every step of the journey. I think it’s the second group that blogs. And as a rule I think most knitters fall in the “all about the journey” group, but just in case there are some “destination” knitters out there here is my cut-to-the-chase version.
POST #2
I recently made large and small knitting needle organizers for a friend and myself. In case you would like to make some too, here are the instructions:
Instructions to make
Fabric Organizers for Knitting Needles and Crochet Hooks
Hope you find these instructions helpful. Please leave a comment on my blog if you find the directions difficult to follow or have helpful advice that should be included. And if you do use these instructions to make your own organizer I would love to see photos.
Supplies:
• One yard each of two or three coordinating fabrics
• One yard lightweight cotton batting
• 6 yards extra wide bias binding
• Thread
Tools:
• Straight edge
• Disappearing marker
Directions:
Cut 6 pieces of fabric in color combinations of your choice:
(2) 19” x 25” (outer backing and inside of case)
(1) 8½” x 25” (pouch #1)
(2) 4½” x 25” (pouch #2 and #3)
(1) 8” x 22” (upper guard)
Cut one piece of cotton batting 19” x 25”
Finish upper edge of all three pouches with bias binding.
Finish sides and bottom edge of upper guard with bias binding (rounding the two bottom corners makes it easier to sew binding to edge in one long strip without having to miter corners).
Line up bottom of pouch #1 with bottom of inside case piece and pin in place.
With wrong side facing fold bottom edge of pouch #2 in ½” to make a small hem. Pin in place on inside backing with bottom edge approximately 2 ½ - 3” above the top of pouch #1. Sew bottom of pouch in place.
Use a straight edge and disappearing marker to divide the inside backing vertically into 4 parts. You will have four sections divided by three seam lines, one line from top to bottom in the middle of the piece, one line from top to bottom 6” to the right of the middle and one line 6” to the left of the middle. This will leave an extra ½ on each side for the bias finish. Sew along all three lines from top to bottom securing both pouches.
Divide each of the four sections in pouch #1 to accommodate your straight needles. Working from left to right I divided the first two sections in 1” increments (12 pockets), the 3rd section in
1 ½” increments (4 pockets), and the 4th section in 2” increments (3 pockets). I left the upper pouch alone to accommodate circulars. (It might be helpful to lay out all your needles and whatever else you want to put in the case and make the divisions to your own specifications.)
Once you are satisfied with your dimensions use your straight edge to mark the sewing lines with the disappearing ink and sew the three seams.
Attach pouch #3 over pouch #1 lining it up with the bottom edge. Pin in place and secure by sewing over the three initial top to bottom seams. You will have four 6” wide pockets which you can leave as is or divide further with additional seams as long as all the seams line up with seams on pouch #1.
Sandwich the batting in between the inner and outer case pieces with right sides facing out. At this point it is helpful to iron both sides well and smooth the fabric out to prevent bunching anywhere. Sew the layers together with the inside facing you so you can follow over those three main seams again.
Trim around the edges to neaten up if necessary. Center the top edge of the upper guard piece along the top of inside backing. Pin in place.
Finish around the entire edge with bias binding. (I find mitered corners difficult to do with bias binding so I round the corners before finishing – I place a coffee mug in the corner and draw around the outer edge with the disappearing marker on each corner to make them uniform).
Nearly done -- Place a fabric tie or ribbon across the middle of the outside case and sew to the case in the three places where it crosses the vertical seams. Optional: Fold two side sections inward and place Velcro circles near top and bottom corners to hold the ends together in place of a tie.
Helpful hints:
If you have a blocking board with measurements it makes it very easy to lay the fabric out on the board and cut the pieces to size with a straight edge, self-healing backer board, and rotary cutter. I used the board measurements and straight edge to mark all my lines, then slipped my rubber cutting mat between the board and fabric and cut along straight edge with a rotary cutter.
I love disappearing markers, but the marker didn’t show up on the dark fabric I chose. I ended up having to use lots of pins. Maybe there’s some sort of white disappearing marker out there but I haven’t found one.
For batting I used “Warm and Natural” from Joann’s – It’s unbleached and doesn’t bunch up or lose its shape. They sell it buy the yard (it is very, very wide -- maybe 106”) at $11 per yard with a one-yard minimum. This is much more than you will need for this project so if you are only making a couple items it would be pretty expensive. I plan on making several gifts. Otherwise I would have used a cheaper option.
SMALLER CASE FOR DOUBLE-POINTS AND CROCHET HOOKS
The basic construction for the smaller case is the same. Here are the measurements I used for mine:
(2) pieces 24” x 10” for backing and inside
(1) pouch 24” x 5”
(1) upper guard 22” x 6”
I made this organizer much the same as the larger one with four equal sections made by three evenly spaced vertical seams. Then I laid out all my double points and crochet hooks and customized the pocket divisions to size.
With leftover fabric I made the totes and “sock sacs” in the photos. They are very simple, I just kind of made them up as I went along, but I’ll post instructions later in case it might help give someone a starting point. These would make great gifts and for only a few dollars – or nothing at all, if you use remnants! Most of the sock sacs I’ve seen in stores are at east $20.
